Vegan Leather in 2026: Modern Fabrics & Sustainable Alternatives

A closer look at the new generation of vegan leather, sustainable alternatives and why I enjoy sewing with them.

A few years ago, I wrote an article about Mylo, an exciting new leather alternative made from mushrooms. At the time, it seemed that the fashion industry was about to enter a completely new era. Imagine beautiful leather bags, jackets and accessories made from mushroom roots instead of animal skins!

I was curious, and I still am. But something else has happened in the meantime. Vegan leather fabrics have developed enormously. Not only the experimental materials made from plants or fungi, but also the more familiar artificial leather fabrics we can actually buy and use in our sewing studios.

As someone who enjoys working with beautiful fabrics, I have noticed a remarkable difference, and honestly? Some of today's vegan leather fabrics are absolutely beautiful.

First, what happened to Mylo?

Let's go back to 2021.

Mylo was developed by the American company Bolt Threads. It was made from mycelium, the underground network of fine threads that forms the root-like structure of mushrooms.

The material attracted considerable attention from the fashion industry. Designer Stella McCartney introduced garments and accessories made with Mylo, while companies such as Adidas, Ganni and Lululemon also explored its possibilities.

It sounded like the future of fashion.

However, there was a problem. Developing an innovative material in a laboratory is one thing. Producing it on a large commercial scale, at a competitive price, is something entirely different.

In 2023, Bolt Threads paused Mylo production because of financial and manufacturing challenges.

So, unfortunately, Mylo did not become the widely available sewing fabric many of us had hoped for, but the research certainly wasn't wasted. The development of mushroom-based materials continues to inspire scientists, designers and textile manufacturers. Plus,  there are plenty of other interesting developments!

What is vegan leather actually made of?

The term vegan leather covers quite a large family of materials. Some are traditional synthetic fabrics, while others contain fibres or ingredients from plants, agricultural waste or other renewable resources. Let's look at some of the most interesting options.

1. Modern PU leather – much better than you might remember

Polyurethane (PU) leather is probably the most familiar alternative to animal leather.

It usually consists of several layers:

• A textile backing, often polyester or cotton.

• A middle layer that provides thickness and flexibility.

• A polyurethane surface coating that creates the leather-like appearance.

The surface can be embossed to imitate anything from smooth Nappa leather to beautiful pebbled leather, suede or even exotic leather textures.

This is where things have changed considerably.

Modern PU fabrics can be incredibly soft, supple and realistic. Some have a beautiful natural-looking grain, while others have a luxurious matte finish.

They are available in many colours, thicknesses and finishes.

For sewing, this is particularly interesting. Depending on the backing and construction, some modern PU fabrics are surprisingly easy to handle.

Of course, quality still matters. Older or poorly stored artificial leather can develop problems. You may find that the different layers start separating, a process called delamination. The surface can also become brittle or crack.

I have encountered this with older leftover materials.

It is one reason why I prefer to work with good-quality, relatively fresh fabrics.

2. Piñatex – leather made from pineapple leaves

This is one of the best-known plant-based leather alternatives.

Piñatex is developed by Ananas Anam and made using fibres extracted from pineapple leaves. These leaves are a by-product of pineapple harvesting. Instead of simply becoming agricultural waste, the fibres are processed into a non-woven textile. The result is a rather distinctive material with a beautiful natural texture.

Piñatex is used for bags, shoes, accessories and interior products.

An interesting detail: Piñatex is not entirely plastic-free. Its different collections use different coatings and binders, including bio-based and conventional polyurethane. This is a good example of why it is worth checking the actual composition rather than relying on the words 'plant-based' or 'eco-friendly'.

3. Cactus leather – a very interesting alternative

Cactus leather, particularly the material known as Desserto, comes from Mexico. It uses leaves from the Nopal cactus, also known as prickly pear.

The mature leaves are harvested without destroying the entire plant. They are processed and combined with other materials to create a leather-like surface. The result can be remarkably attractive.

Cactus leather is used in fashion accessories, upholstery and other design applications.

It is often softer than people expect and can have a lovely leather-like appearance.

However, it is important to understand that commercial cactus leather is generally a composite material. It can contain polyurethane and textile backing materials.

So, although the cactus is an important ingredient, the finished material is not necessarily completely natural or biodegradable.

4. Apple leather – making something beautiful from waste

Another interesting development is apple leather.

The food industry produces enormous amounts of apple waste, including pulp and peel left over from juice and other food production.

Some manufacturers use these leftovers to produce leather-like materials.

The apple-derived ingredients are combined with binders and textile backing materials.

Apple leather can have a smooth, elegant appearance and is particularly interesting for handbags, wallets and accessories.

As with cactus leather, the actual composition varies between manufacturers.

It is not automatically 100% plant-based.

5. Grape leather – an alternative from the wine industry

Here is another clever idea. The wine industry produces large quantities of grape skins, seeds and other leftovers. These materials can be processed and used in leather-like composites.

VEGEA is one of the companies that has explored this approach.

The idea is simple but clever: take something that would otherwise be discarded and give it a second life as a fashionable material.

I particularly like this approach to material development. We should make better use of the resources we already have!

6. MIRUM – perhaps one of the most exciting developments

And now something particularly interesting.

MIRUM, developed by Natural Fiber Welding, is a plant-based leather alternative that does not rely on conventional polyurethane or PVC coatings.

Instead, it uses ingredients such as natural rubber, plant oils, natural pigments, minerals and agricultural by-products.

Coconut fibres, cork and other natural materials can also be used.

What makes MIRUM especially interesting is that it is designed to be completely plastic-free.

It is available in different textures and finishes and is intended for products such as bags, footwear and accessories.

This is a very different approach from simply coating a piece of fabric with plastic.

I think materials like this are an important step towards a more responsible future for fashion.

Why I enjoy sewing with modern vegan leather

Now, let's talk about something closer to my own sewing studio.

I genuinely enjoy working with vegan leather.

Nothing quite compares to beautiful genuine leather. Its natural grain, smell, texture and character are difficult to reproduce. But that does not mean I always want to use animal leather.

There are several reasons why I happily choose artificial leather and vegan alternatives.

1. The price

Good-quality genuine leather can be expensive, particularly when you need larger pieces or several matching panels.

Modern artificial leather often offers a much more affordable option.

This makes it easier to experiment with shapes, colours and designs without spending a fortune on materials.

2. The weight

Weight is another important consideration.

Some leather alternatives are considerably lighter than genuine leather.

When making costumes, jackets, decorative accessories or larger projects, this can make a real difference.

Nobody wants to wear a beautiful costume that feels like carrying a suitcase!

3. Easier sewing

Depending on the type and thickness, modern artificial leather can be much easier to sew than genuine leather.

You can often use an ordinary sewing machine rather than a specialist leather sewing machine.

Some fabrics are flexible, soft and easy to cut.

And unlike genuine leather, you can usually work with a fabric backing that behaves much more like ordinary textile material.

Of course, always test your fabric first.

4. More colours and textures

This is probably one of my favourite things.You can find vegan leather in beautiful colours, from classic black and brown to burgundy, forest green, metallic shades and even unusual fantasy colours.

There are smooth finishes, embossed textures, suede effects and wonderfully soft materials.

For costume making and creative sewing, the possibilities are enormous.

A little sewing advice: working with vegan leather

Although modern vegan leather can be easier to handle than genuine leather, it does require some attention.

Here are a few things I always recommend.

• Use clips instead of pins. Pins can leave permanent holes in the surface.

• Test your needle. A suitable sharp or Microtex needle often works well, depending on the backing and thickness.

• Try a Teflon or roller foot. Some surfaces can stick to an ordinary presser foot.

• Adjust your stitch length. A slightly longer stitch often gives a better result and avoids perforating the material too much.

• Test your tension. Different backing materials can behave differently.

• Avoid unnecessary unpicking. Needle holes may remain visible.

• Check the ironing instructions. Many synthetic leather surfaces cannot tolerate high temperatures. Always test on a scrap first.

One more important tip: keep your fabric away from excessive heat and direct sunlight when storing it.

Quality materials deserve proper care.

Is vegan leather always better for the environment?

This is where things become a little more complicated.

Vegan leather is often presented as the environmentally friendly alternative to genuine leather, however that is not always entirely true.

Traditional PU and PVC leather alternatives are still largely plastic-based. They can be difficult to recycle and may not biodegrade.

Plant-based materials can be more interesting, particularly when they use agricultural waste.

Many of them still require synthetic coatings or binders to achieve the necessary flexibility, strength and water resistance.

MIRUM is an interesting exception because it avoids conventional plastic coatings.

So, if sustainability is important to you, look beyond the marketing.

Ask questions:

• What percentage of the material is plant-based?

• Does it contain PU or PVC?

• What is the backing made of?

• Is it recyclable?

• How long will the material last?

And perhaps the most important question: will you actually use and enjoy the material for many years?

A beautiful, durable product that is used for a long time is always worth considering.

My conclusion: a wonderful time for creative sewing

When I compare the vegan leather fabrics I worked with years ago with some of the beautiful materials available today, the difference is remarkable.

There is still room for improvement, of course.

Older leftover fabrics can sometimes cause problems with separating layers, poor flexibility or a damaged surface. That is why I am careful about using old artificial leather unless I know how it has been stored. But the newer materials can be absolutely stunning.

I particularly appreciate the combination of attractive appearance, lower weight, affordable prices and ease of sewing. And I am genuinely excited about the development of new plant-based alternatives.

I will always admire beautiful genuine leather. There is something special about a natural material that has been used by craftsmen for centuries. But for animal welfare reasons, practical considerations and the price of materials, I am just as happy to choose a beautiful artificial leather. When that fabric is also genuinely vegan and made with a thoughtful approach to the environment, that is even better!

The future of beautiful materials is not necessarily about choosing one material over another. It is about having more possibilities, making informed choices and creating something that lasts.

That is exactly what handmade design should be about.

Marga van der Vet

~Your seamstress & textile artist at Handmade Luxury Home~